It's hard to tell people whether to get one or two rabbits. It can be so hard to weigh out the pros and cons, as watching two bunnies interact with each other is a great thing indeed if it goes well. BUT... if it doesn't go well... then it's major trouble waiting to happen.
So today I will talk about some of the realities of bonded rabbits and things to consider when looking into it.
1.If buying rabbits, even if you get a bonded pair, bonds can and do break down regularly. Simply moving them can be the stressor that breaks that bond.
2. Baby bonds are not full bonds. They are two young rabbits getting along until the hormones hit.
3. size of cage matters and NO ONE can tell you whether the size you have is sufficient. They can tell you what they think, but unless they are the bunny involved, you simply can't truly know. Some rabbits simply require more space. For instance my girl Wafer needs a four by four cage to feel comfortable. Sneak Thief is happy in a 24 x 30 inch cage. Had a buck if I moved him out of a 24 x 24 cage would be all worried about everything, have another one that if I put him in a small cage gets very "busy" and will spray. Compound that space difference with another rabbit who may have completely different space requirements and now has to share with another rabbit. Sold a couple someddwarf bunnies about three years back... HUGE area they were going to put them ... at least 10 by 10 square feet....and one of those wee bunnies decided that the WHOLE space belonged to him and simply would not share it with anyone.
4. then you have to content with how close rabbits like to be with each other. even with my kits you can see that some like to bunny pile and others like to sit off to the side a bit. Guess which one would be harder to find a bond for.
5. male/female bonds TEND to work best especially if one (or both) are neutered.
6. female/female bonds tend to work longer together. BUT male/male bonds can work as well.
But ultimately what works best is
1. A LARGER then you expect cage size
2. mellow rabbits.
3. furniture that rabbits can hop up on, hide behind, snuggle into
4. stuff to do... places to dig, run around, chew up, and otherwise keep themselves busy
5. food given in more than one spot.
What YOU need to do
1. monitor for signs of stress - tuffs of fur, excessive mounting, one huddling in a corner
2. check them over regularly (at least once a week). You are looking for scratches on the back, thinness, bites, small injuries
3. feed and water regularly.. if measure feeding, feed at 1.5 times the normal "measured" amount.