This is what it Currently Contains
First week give hay and pellets only.
These bunnies are used to getting
1. in the morning pellets and the odd household leftovers.
2. in the evening,
a. big handful of grass or grass hay or
b. 1 hay cube per rabbit (timothy/alfalfa mix) or
c. apple branch/s
- Generally speaking on 16% protein feed
- For mini rex & holland lops,½ -3/4 cup
- For polish rabbits – 1/3-1/2 cup
- For Harlequin rabbits – 1 cup.
1 cup of greens = 1 oz of pellets
Young rabbits should be free fed pellets until they mature.
I find, generally speaking, that young rabbits will eat 1-1.5
times their adult ration.
- every day, fresh water
My bunnies are used to crocks in the winter, and in the
summer water bottles that use the roller ball system.
Grass based hay
- orchard or timothy grass
- Many will say give daily. When in molt every day a must,
otherwise hay at least 2-3 times per week.
Other stuff :)
- not at all necessary, but if giving treats, go for green.
- NO CABBAGE family plants particularly to Lops.
If giving new foods, GO SLOWLY. Think the size of a quarter.
Give that. Next day check for poopy bum, if all good then
gradually increase amounts given.
Rabbits don't like changes in their diet. The first sign of trouble
is either not pooping OR getting loose poops.
If a rabbit stops eating, drinking or pooping, get
to a vet ASAP.
If a rabbit gets loose poops give them nothing but hay for at
least three days. Then gradually reintroduce other foods.
I heartily recommend using Martins Little Friends Rabbit food.
Contains yucca which helps to neutralize the smell of rabbit pee.
NOTE rabbits LOVE this food.
Basic assumption.. the more room the better. Rabbits are
happier and healthier if allowed room to stretch out and jump
For ideas on rabbit housing see here:
Don't use cedar bedding.
They can be litter trained. Rabbits naturally like to “go” in the
same spot. There are numerous resources on-line to assist in
this. Easiest is to hang their hay in the chosen corner.
Other rabbit basics
Rabbits do not need the company of other rabbits. They do just
fine on their own. They do like to socialize with their people, and
sometimes with the family dog or cat (depends a lot on the
family dog or cat).
Rabbit kisses are a huge compliment!
They are easy to keep.
Their waste is excellent for the garden should you have one. It
can be used as is, it does not have to age.
To understand rabbit communication this link may be helpful:
An Important Fact to Remember:
Rabbits in the real world are considered food by EVERYTHING.
Anything that eats meat will eat a rabbit. Rabbits are hardwired
to know this as well. So they know that if their feet are off
the ground that SOMETHING wants to eat them.
Teach your rabbits that you are safe. This means picking it
up in a way that you will not hurt it. Cover it's eyes when you
walk. Have it firmly supported at all times. A rabbit that trusts
you is a rabbit that won't hurt you.
Understand the difference between a cage protective rabbit and
an aggressive rabbit.
AT HOME PETS policy.
I make an effort to find good homes for all my rabbits and to be
responsible for them.
I have a permanent return policy. Purchase becomes a rental.
Just bring back bunny and it's stuff (helps with rehoming).
Since I can't be responsible for what you do with your rabbits, I
have a 24 hour care policy. I promise to sell you rabbits that for
all intents and purposes appear to be healthy rabbits.
I require that if your rabbit shows signs of illness I
must know within 72 hours of sale. No refunds given,
just a bunny exchange upon return of original rabbit.
Feel free to contact me with any questions.
Feel free to go to my website for help with bunny care.
What changes am I going to make?
Add a section on GOOD treats to eat.
What to do the first week you have a bunny.
A bit about bunny behaviour - being space protective, teenage years etc.
Probably just tighten things up a bit.