Category: - AT HOME PETS

The Dangers of Satin Genetics

2/1/2026

So I think I'll be phasing out the satin genetics in my herd. I say this after going down a rabbit hole of the Dangers of Satin Genetics today.

I have learned they have a plethora of problems caused by the Satin gene and since I don't like creating issues in critters for people down the road.... the Satin gene is one I don't want to mess with.

Guinea pigs can live for up to 14 years!! So why would I want to b bring critters into the world that could potentially start to suffer within 2 years and possibly as long as 14 years! Not my idea of a good thing for a critter eh?

So what issues can they have?

Satin syndrome is a thing.

According to one site I looked at it's a combination of problems that starts with one thing but builds into several others.

Let's break it down a bit. Kidney Disease, Hyperparthyroidism, Dental disease and Fibrous Osteodystrophy.

These all lead one from other. It's like they have a domino effect. So it starts off as renal kidney disease. Because the kidneys aren't filtering the blood they way they are supposed to, it has a knock on effect on the parathyroid gland, This creates hyperparathyroidism.

Hyperparathyroidism affects how the body absorbs calcium properly. This causes the body to strip needed calcium from the bones which leads to Fibrous Osteodystrophy..

Fibrous Osteodystrophy is created by the stripping of calcium and how it affects the bones (it gives bones a moth-eaten appearance in an x-ray) and their function inevitably leads to dental disease.

So definitely not something you want in your guinea pig!

Yes they look gorgeous, and so I didn't mind when they started popping up in my herd.

But having this recent litter from a satin pig and seeing some deformation in the youngsters... led me to doing this research and it's just not something I want to play with.

Knowing that this disease can start in very young guinea pigs (generally before 2 years) but can start whenever. I would not be happy knowing I could be part of the suffering for a splendid animal companion.

New Zealand has banned the breeding of them.

Sources for this research:

Basic Care of Guinea Pigs

3/11/2025

Hi! You have purchased at least one of my guinea pigs as a pet or breeding animal. Congratulations.

Whether you are a long-time Cavy owner, or a first time lover of guinea pigs, I find it’s good to learn how the breeder has kept their animals, as it helps in the transition of a piggie to new home.

I focus on raising piggies for health and temperament. I do my best to give you the best guinea pig I can.

Basics of Care

Guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own Vitamin C and therefore need you to supply it for them. You can do this is a few different ways.

1. feed them a made for guinea pigs food that is JUST pellets. This feed will contain a shelf stable vitamin C.
2. feed them rabbit pellets, and them give them 1/4 chewable vitamin C every day. I find they like the orange flavours the best. Pregnant or sick guinea pigs need more vitamin C.
3. feed them copious amount of high vitamin C content fruits and veggies. They require more than you think they might, so it's best to not aim for this as being your sole method of providing Vitamin C.

Beyond Vitamin C they require clean water daily, fresh feed, some hay, and some fresh feed. Guinea pigs will get to know the time of day you feed them and start "encouraging" you to hurry up with the goodies. :)

Guinea pigs get mites from it seems like everything. It's part and parcel of raising piggies. I find once they have it and are treated for it, they don't get it again.

Part of me is convinced that guinea pigs just carry a mite infestation on them but simply don't get it until something stresses them. But I can't find evidence that proves that. I do know that if you don't breed guinea pigs that catch mites easily you will get less cases the longer you breed them.

The mites they get are specific to guinea pigs so you don't need to fret about catching mites from them. Nor will any other pets get mites from them.

Guinea pigs can also be prone to getting ringworm. Parents can carry without any symptoms and it will show up in their offspring. Treating it is very easy at first sign of illness. Be careful, it is transmittable to people.

Treat with an over the counter fungal cream for ringworm that people use. My protocol (not a vet so not telling YOU what to do). When it appears, treat it fairly aggressively (every three days) for the first week and then once a week thereafter to ensure it stays gone. Just a wee dollop on the ear.

Mites I use ivermectin (in horse wormer paste). Treat every 10 days for a month (catches life cycle of mite reproduction). (Again, not a vet, just telling you what I do, not what YOU need to do). Just a wee dollop on the ear.

ALL my guinea pigs are treated preventatively against mites and ringworm before they go to new homes. I don't know if YOUR guinea pigs will be carriers of either or what conditions they'll be in. Stress can bring out hidden problems and the goal is to give them a good start despite any stress from moving.

Guinea Pigs and Fresh Food

My piggies are used to eating a variety of lettuces, carrots, some apple, parsley, and broccolini (in the winter). In the summer they eat a variety of produce AND all the weeds in my garden. They tend to be somewhat suspicious of new feed and it may need to be offered to them several times before they recognize it as food. I alternate with pellets and vitamin C in the mornings and fresh feed in the evenings.

When Litters Fail

1/25/2025

unfortunately, when raising livestock, sometimes you have deadstock, and today... Today I had dead stock. It's not the first time I've had a failed litter,. Therefore I thought I'd talk about what I do when litters fail.

I had two young does due potentially to have kits (they've been running with young bucks for the past month). Bucks were removed since does were acting preggers.

Both kindled 34 days after they were introduced.

Limerick had three dead kits, in the nestbox, well cleaned, but no fur pulled. No placentas to be found.

Kacey had four kits, sorta near the nestbox, no placentas eaten, one was partially cleaned, the rest, not so much.

So Limerick tried and sorta had the right ideas, but Kacey was an abject failure.

Now Kacey and Limerick are sisters and I'll be treating them exactly the same but I'll be looking at their next litters differently.

Both will be run with their partners for three-four days again, and so we'll try again.

Kacey, since she didn't even really try, I'll be watching with a more jaded eye. If she struggles with doing things well with this upcoming litter, she won't remain as part of my herd.

Since Limerick tried but just messed up with one aspect (pulling fur) so I'll be less worried about her potential to turn things around. :) She mostly did things well so I have high hopes! :)

They are both VERY sweet with their partners though Limerick had to make a decision to be nice to Hunter! He's quite a little sweet talker though with his little bunny snuggles. :)

Mason and Kacey first wouldn't share the bowl at chow time but now press up against each other as they eat. It's rather cute watching them.

Options Available

I tend to do a two strikes and you are out protocol if EVERYONE else is doing their job. They breed, have kits, raise them. If only one rabbit isn't, I'll give you another go as everyone makes mistakes right? But more than that means something if off with you and I don't want to breed that into my herd.

Other breeders do three strikes and you are out. And still others keep trying for a very long time. So it's up to you right?

My thought is simply this.... what do I want to breed into my herd? Rabbits that have problems being parents? Rabbits with any sort of issue that makes rearing difficult for me or for people looking for rabbits of their own to breed? Not my idea of fun! :)

So think through your breeding goals. Stick to them for the most part and it will make it better for you in the long run!

Pros and Cons of a Dead Litter

10/4/2020

Recently one of my young does had a failed litter. Sparrow is a bit of a skittery doe, an anomaly in my herd, but sometimes skittery does settle down once they have a litter. She failed rather spectacularly which is always sad to see.

But with every sad thing in a rabbitry there are things to learn. Today I thought I'd talk about some of the pros and cons of a dead litter.

Positives of a dead litter

1. Gives you another chance to evaluate the doe. Why did she have a dead litter? Did you miss a genetic issue? Is she simply too narrow to give birth to live kits? Is it just "stupid first time doe syndrome"?
2. Your doe is still alive. That means you can try again with a different buck!
3. It shows that your doe is not sterile. Again, means you can try again.
4. Dead kits can be turned into food as long as they haven't gone bad. Donate to a raptor rescue, sell to a reptile guy, feed them to your furry companions, or use them for compost. Don't just toss them in your garbage.
5. It's just one month down the tubes. The doe can be rebred, or sold, or culled depending on your opinion of her long-term prognosis.
6. Gives you an opportunity to examine kits closely to see if there are any genetic abnormalities.

Negatives of a dead litter

1. You have a dead litter. Hopefully your doe is undamaged.
2. If your doe passed away as well, do a necropsy to see if you can figure out why. Use the knowledge you gain to improve your rabbitry.
3. No kits to enjoy and care for.
4. It is horrible to find a dead litter. Even though I know it's part of raising animals, and that sometimes youngsters don't make it, it still is horrible.

Have I missed anything?

These points are all I could think of, can you think of anything I have missed?

Varmints in the Rabbitry

8/28/2020

I can't find a post about this though I'm sure I have at one point or the other. Varmints in the rabbitry can be a major problem.

Unless you have a fully enclosed shed or barn, you at some point, if you care for rabbits will have a varmint problem.

What I have dealt with and how I manage them:

Rats - ended up after fighting for months with natural methods using poison to get rid of them. Removed all bird feeders and all feed is now in critter proof bins. Metal bins are a must. They are messy, stinky critters that will chew off bunny feet.
field mice - they honestly haven't been a problem for me and now one of my cats takes care of any problem critters.
Domestic mice - I trap them in a live trap and humanely euthanize them.
Possums - live traps, remove to forest area. Lights that turn on with movement, they don't stick around. Keep any meat/dead stock OUT of the compost bins. Can be dangerous if see rabbits if food, but normally go after carrion.
Raccoons - live traps, remove to forest area. make sure there is no food lying around, lights that turn on with movement. They will reach into cages and pull bunny legs, ears, basically whatever they can grab. Leaving you with a young rabbit or rabbits to euthanize.
Hawks - no rabbits left in play pens on the grass without being right there in the yard with them. They'll snatch a rabbit given an opportunity.
Feral cats - trap and remove to animal control.
Squirrels - live trap, remove to forest area. They make a mess of hay, straw, chew to get into feed, so metal bins are a must. Set live trap in rabbitry so only catch the problem makers.

Why Do Rabbits Sneeze?

7/5/2020

The other day I received this message
"Since I got Lyra home, she has had at least one or two sneezing fits a day. She has no discharge and is eating drinking well. Could it be the hay? I’ve never heard a rabbit sneeze quite like that, but it’s not all the time, only once or twice a day like I said.

Any ideas or suggestions? Her cage is fairly sparse for litter training so she just has hay, wood pellets for litter in her litter box, a wood hide and a lava block to chew. Plus pellets and water."

My short response to her was "Rabbits sneeze sometimes. If you see no snot, or wet front paws it's probably just a sneeze."

I was reassured to hear that she saw no snot, and no wet front paws. A sneeze is sometimes just a sneeze.

But what about those times when a sneeze is NOT just a sneeze and is indicative of a bigger problem?

Causes of Sneezing

What can cause a rabbit to sneeze?

1. Dust and other irritants
2. Allergies.
3. Illness

Dust and other irritants

You get dust in your nose, you sneeze. Bunnies are no different. Irritants can be things like smoke, perfumes, air fresheners, and various dust particles. Eliminate the irritant, relieve the sneezing.

The bedding used, or the chemicals you use to clean, could be irritants as well.

I knew a girl who had a lovely bunny who one day started biting her and it was so surprising. After lots of questions we tracked it down to she changed her perfume and it was negatively affecting her bunny. She got rid of the perfume and the bunny reverted to his normal sweet self. Not sneezing...but an example of how something we don't know about can cause a problem with your bunny.

Allergies

People will often say "my bunny is allergic to hay." I have a really hard time believing this one. I tend to believe rather that the hay is dusty and the dust from the hay is the issue, not the hay itself. Hay can be dusty and some rabbits are highly susceptible to dust particles. Even if you don't see it, doesn't mean the dust isn't there.

But, given the anecdotal evidence I do think that rabbits can have seasonal allergies when there is most dust and pollen in the air, or a dry summer with farmers working their fields. Some rabbits can really struggle with the dust and other irritants that are in the air.

I firmly believe that rabbits who really struggle with allergies or a sensitivity to dust particles should NOT be used for breeding. There are so many rabbits out there that don't struggle, why would you perpetuate the health issue?

BESIDES a rabbit who is struggling with dust and/or allergies, would be more susceptible to the third reason.... illness.

Illness

Respiratory infections carry a much greater cause for concern. Frequently they are associated with discharge from the nose and watery eyes. You'll also see dirty front paws from the bunny wiping their noses.

Respiratory illnesses can be very dangerous to bunnies. It can make them so ill they can't eat, drink or breathe properly. They tend to be highly contagious, therefore putting any of your other rabbits at risk.

Diseases that cause snot in rabbits generally one of:
1. Bordatella. Treat it! Rabbits usually recover.
2. Pasteurella. This one is hard. Here is Dutch Rabbit's approach.
3. Pneumonia. Often buns die from pneumonia very quickly. It can literally have them on death's door overnight.

Less common:
1. Allergies.
2. Tooth issues. Drainage from the eye goes into nasal cavity.
3. Nasal Tumour.
4. Foreign body. Hay, or some particle stuck.
5. Trauma, such as a head attack by a predator.

My approach to excess sneezing or snot-laden rabbits can be found in this blog post. Always keep and use your best rabbits. If you just have one, do your best to keep them healthy, but let them go if it's time for them to go.

When Bunnies Choose

6/21/2020

Even though Heart is pictured on grey above, she finally decided that she WAS a girl even though she's been playing at being a buck for the past two months.

Anyways, she's old enough to be bred and has been acting all hormonal girlie for the past week but she didn't like Calypso who I wanted to pair her with. She constantly ran away from him. Acted like he was the worst thing in the entire world that she's ever met. (poor old boy)

So I figured I'd put her with Band who she promptly bossed around (which tend to make Band a bit mean and I didn't want either rabbit hurt) so I said "okay, now what?".

I really had no desire to breed her to Keeper but figured, well.. maybe.. just maybe she wants a young boy. She LOVES him. Oh my. That went so quickly this morning.

So sometimes, even though we have our own plans, our bunnies make their own.

If the doe you want to breed with a certain buck won't... try her with a different one. Sometimes they really do have their own minds about things.

It has me wondering if Flower is holding out for HER own choice as well.....

Best Nestbox Design

5/26/2020

I've been breeding rabbit for quite a spell. I had meat rabbits as a child and sold them at the market. Took a hiatus over my college and single years, then started back with rabbits when I got married.

I have used a wide variety of nestboxes. There are pros and cons to every style out there.

Yesterday I was out washing up my boxes to let them sanitize in the sun and though I should talk about nestboxes with you.

The Style that I prefer

It took me quite a while to figure out the style I liked and a lot of my decisions came from watching my rabbits. I lose less kits out of this style of box then any other style.

The high sides are what my does (90%) of them will jump over to get into the box and the height seems to encourage latched on kits to unlatch into the safety of the box. Kit safety is the biggest reason for nestbox design.

Standard Design

This is the only one of my original nestboxes that is still in use. It has a loose front panel now and is getting rather stained and battered. I'm looking at getting rid of it. I only use it for small does that are shy. They seem best suited for this type of box. I will build one to replace it. Like this one, it will only be used occasionally. I find does like to perch on top of the box, I'd rather they not do this as some does are clumsy and apt to fall on kits causing damage. Again, kit safety is more important to me. For does that like to perch I can always give them another box to sit on if needful. Never in, only flipped so they can sit on the underside which keeps boxes clean inside for kit health.

The Step away from lidded Nestboxes

Here I simply removed the lid and had the same basic design as the standard box. It was a good inbetween step for me. Still had more kit loss than I liked since the does like to jump out the side and the lower side didn't help kits to fall back into safety.

Straight Sides Lower Front

This design helped... a TON. I was shocked at how a simple change would make such a huge difference. I did note that a few of my does liked to go in the front, and that would result in kit loss. This led to my next design change.

All Sides Equal

I made two variety of this style. One with very light wood (which I LOVE but they don't hold up well over time. The does seem to love the light weight wood as well. They are excellent to nibble on, cheaper wood to use, work equally well summer/winter. Don't work well with heavier, confident, like to throw things around does. But most of my does aren't like that. :)

Their lack of longevity had to creating them using thicker wood. Does still shove them around til they are in just the right spot, and they last longer, but still had more kit loss than I liked to have.

Other Designs

Over the years I've tried other styles. Metal means cold kits in the winter unless lined with paper and some does would eat the cardboard which was just irritating.

A white plastic box, I can't remember what the plastic is called. I told the person who designed it that I would give it a trial run for a discount. HATED that box. Wet kits, no drainage, I use it for keeping spare fur from the does. So it's still worth something to me but not as a nestbox.

Mandarin orange crates. These work really well for polish. It surprised me how well they worked. Kits stayed in, perfect size to keep warm. If I still had polish I continue using them, but the mice my son raises use them as hidey holes now.

Other world-wide designs

On the rabbit boards that I am part of there is a lot of debate about having wire bottoms on nestboxes that you cover with cardboard when kits are young. Helps with drainage and keeping kits cool. Opinions run across the board.

Other people use old cat litter tubs or plastic square pails.

I've seen heavy cardboard boxes used successfully.

There is a world out there with creative ideas for nestboxes. Watch your rabbits, analyze the results of your builds and let them do their job. Be as helpful to them as you can be, that is your job as a "rabbit herder". :) Then stand back and let them be the mommas you know they can be. :)

Make Pedigrees from non-pedigreed rabbits

5/4/2020

I was talking with a new rabbit breeder this morning who (it seemed to me) was disclaiming her non-pedigreed rabbits who she had turned into pets. I mentioned she can easily make her own pedigrees. I think she was surprised.

So HOW do you make pedigrees from non-pedigreed rabbits?

Rabbits are show by phenotype not genotype

Unlike in the world of other animals where pedigrees really truly matter. People want/need to trace their animals back to foundational animals that need is not present in the rabbit world. Is it nice to know? For sure! But rabbits have been primarily a food animal for a very long time and have been judged more by their type then by their pedigree for a very long time.

If you have a rabbit that looks like a dutch, you can show it as a dutch even if you have no pedigree. Same thing with Netherland dwarf, Flemish giant, Holland lops or mini rex. What matters most is what the animal looks like.

Where do you start

Here you are with your rabbit of unknown origin. You know their colour and general build.

Take for instance, this fellow. Looks like a holland lop, has the approximate size of a holland lop. Call him George.

You breed George to Tilda also a non-pedigreed holland lop type.
This gets you your first generation. A doe you've named Lincoln.

You breed Lincoln to DarkSun and get your second generation. You might have a bit more information that you have recorded about DarkSun like colour. Write down as much information as you can. Weight at six months, colour, date of birth etc. If you have a rabbit that is more pedigreed, use them to fill out your pedigree a bit more.

Be honest on your pedigreed. If you have mixed in a netherland dwarf into your pedigree to bring down the size of your large holland lops, kept the breed on your pedigree so people will know that.

Each generation gives you another generation on your pedigree. Keep collecting information. Add it to your pedigree. Colour, weight (6 mths), tattoo, etc.

Until eventually you get a third generation pedigree. Three generations is the minimum number accepted on a pedigree, four is better but three is acceptable.

For me in my rabbitry, if I'm starting a pedigree from an unknown rabbit I keep one of out each successive generation and sell the less pedigreed parent into a pet home.

This way you continue to move forward in your quest to get fully pedigreed animals.

NOW I do have to say this. If you have a fine looking fellow like this who is CLEARLY a mutt it would be helpful to keep a pedigree program for him. BUT he is not any define-able breed, so you would merely be pedigree-ing the offspring in order to help your record keeping, or perhaps to start your very own breed.

Cheta is a dwarf type and I'd love to start my own dwarf breed with his colouring and attitude. But he's not a particular breed, a real little mutt. :) Perhaps I can create a breed called "The Cheta Dwarf" :)

An affordable pedigree program is Kintraks. The owner is based out of Australia and you can use it to pedigree any animal species that you have. One life-time fee. Regular upgrades included. Costs... about $25.

Decisions Made in the Rabbitry

4/18/2020

Today I had a text conversation with a gal. Turns out that a bunny I was going to sell as a pet and got talked into selling as a breeder was flipped on me without the new person being told of the bunnies issues. I was angry to hear about this.

Angry too to hear about badly the person I sold this bunny to, took advantage of the new owner. I have decided that if I think a bunny should be sold as a PET animal and not a breeder, I won't let someone talk me out of that decision.

It got me thinking about other decisions I have made over the years.

Have a goal

When I started breeding rabbits I had the privilege of talking with some old meat rabbit breeders. It was so good to chat with them. One thing they kept repeating, each in their own way, was breed for what you want. If you want a good meat animal, breed for it. If you want strong healthy animals never breed from anything less. Have your focus and walk at it.

Breed for health

Never breed anything that gets sick EVER. Doesn't matter the cause. I don't care if it's allergies, nestbox eyes, poor feet, lousy teeth, eating too fast to cause choking, broken leg or whatever. Sick or stupid animals breed sick or stupid animals and I won't do it. Everyone has goals in their rabbitry.... and I want first and foremost to breed healthy animals with good immune systems.

Your Goals are your own

Don't compare your goals to anyone else's. They are YOUR goals and as equally valid as anyone else's as long as the goal is to serve well the animals that you have. So having a goal of keeping meat rabbits in squalid, ill-kept conditions is something to fight against. But you don't need to fight against someone who breeds mutts, sells a few as pets and eats the rest.

Keep your rabbits in good conditions, fed, watered, and treated kindly. And let others do the same even if their end goal varies from yours. What does it matter to you, me or anyone else?

Cull Hard

Cull hard and cull often. Cull for reasons that suit your goals.
Strong meat rabbits... cull the smaller or scrawny.
Pet buns... cull the nervous, biting, neurotic, sick animals dead. Sell the rest. Get a reputation for selling steady calm animals.
Show animals... snippy noses, bad ears, narrow rear, cull them all.

Culling doesn't need to be killing animals, it could mean sending them off to a new home instead. Keep only what furthers your end goals

Share your Knowledge

Share your knowledge.

Sometimes that means having a child over for a day so they can "earn a rabbit". You talk bunnies all day, teach them how to care for them, feed them, and things to be watchful for. It's a good thing to do.

Another time it might mean joining a facebook group, or a rabbit forum and when someone says "help", offering your help.

I have learned that what I say on a meat rabbit forum can be phrased fairly bluntly, but saying the same thing on a pet rabbit forum sometimes means careful rewording. It is often a different lingo AND mindset and you need to respect the person you are talking to.

Protect Yourself

Over the years I've had to deal with a whole variety of people. Some of them turned out to be animal activists.

ERGO: I don't sell animals from my property. When people send me letters after buying a rabbit condemning everything about me and my house and lifestyle choices, I don't need to have you on my property to buy a young rabbit.

Don't overshare about your life. Stick to the topic at hand. Talk bunnies, or mice, or the weather if you must. But keep your personal life out of the conversation. Encourage folks to join a rabbit club, or come to a show, be helpful and supportive and encourage them to broaden their horizons. :)

Have a fairly clear sale policy. Just so people know what your policies are. Don't lock yourself into a long-term commitment beyond providing email support. State whether or not you take animals back, or if you provide a guarantee (or don't), and be honest about the animals you have.