So we've discussed basic care for dwarf rabbits and holland lops. Today we'll broach the larger rabbits.
The large breed rabbits, also known as meat mutts, that I raise are a mix of the various meat rabbits I have raised over the years. They will contain English Lop, New Zealand, Flemish Giant, Harlequin and more. They range in size from 8-11 lbs. As I'm getting older I find that prefer the rabbits more in the 8 lb range simply because that three pounds makes a difference in handling abilities.
The large breed rabbits, also known as meat mutts, that I raise are a mix of the various meat rabbits I have raised over the years. They will contain English Lop, New Zealand, Flemish Giant, Harlequin and more. They range in size from 8-11 lbs. As I'm getting older I find that prefer the rabbits more in the 8 lb range simply because that three pounds makes a difference in handling abilities.
Hi! You have been directed to this page because purchased at least one of my rabbits as a pet or breeding animal. Congratulations!
Whether you are a long-time rabbit owner, or a first time lover of rabbits, I find it’s good to learn how a rabbit breeder has kept their rabbits, as it helps in the transition of a bunny to new home.
I focus on raising bunnies for health and temperament. I do my best to give you the best bunny I can. My bunnies are friendly and easy to handle buns.
Some of my larger breed girls can get a bit grumpy when they are due to have kits OR are raising kits up til they are about two weeks old. I don't mind a grumpy doe as long as she doesn't try to bite me every time I look at her kits, or it persists longer than two weeks. A doe that is protective of her kits or her space tends to be a solidly good momma and I like that in my large breed girls. If you are raising a young large breed girl up as a pet I do recommend getting her neutered before she is fully mature so those hormones don't create issues for you.
Whether you are a long-time rabbit owner, or a first time lover of rabbits, I find it’s good to learn how a rabbit breeder has kept their rabbits, as it helps in the transition of a bunny to new home.
I focus on raising bunnies for health and temperament. I do my best to give you the best bunny I can. My bunnies are friendly and easy to handle buns.
Some of my larger breed girls can get a bit grumpy when they are due to have kits OR are raising kits up til they are about two weeks old. I don't mind a grumpy doe as long as she doesn't try to bite me every time I look at her kits, or it persists longer than two weeks. A doe that is protective of her kits or her space tends to be a solidly good momma and I like that in my large breed girls. If you are raising a young large breed girl up as a pet I do recommend getting her neutered before she is fully mature so those hormones don't create issues for you.
Feeding
My bunnies, depending on the season are fed, along with pellets, mixed greens (mostly the weeds from my garden), hay, and mixed grains.
My large breed rabbits eat around 3/4 cup of pellets every single day. How much they get depends on the condition they are in. Due to my work schedule they normally get pellets in the morning. Along with fresh water.
Occasionally I sell large breed crosses which will eat between about 2/3 cup of pellets daily.
I feed pellets from the Hensall feed mill. It's a good 17% protein food. Pellets should just be pellets. High in Fibre, about 15-17% protein, and lower in fat content. They should look green and smell more or less like dried grass.
My large breed rabbits eat around 3/4 cup of pellets every single day. How much they get depends on the condition they are in. Due to my work schedule they normally get pellets in the morning. Along with fresh water.
Occasionally I sell large breed crosses which will eat between about 2/3 cup of pellets daily.
I feed pellets from the Hensall feed mill. It's a good 17% protein food. Pellets should just be pellets. High in Fibre, about 15-17% protein, and lower in fat content. They should look green and smell more or less like dried grass.
In the evening they either get hay, greens from work (from the grocer I work at or my garden), or mixed grains.
This is very seasonal in my approach. Growing season, more fresh food, and the non-growing season... more dry food. Hay I feed predominately during times of stress... moulting, seasonal change, first major storm of the year type of thing.
This is very seasonal in my approach. Growing season, more fresh food, and the non-growing season... more dry food. Hay I feed predominately during times of stress... moulting, seasonal change, first major storm of the year type of thing.
The hay I use is grass based, horse-quality hay. It might have a bit of alfalfa in it, but is predominately grass hay.
My mixed grains are mostly oats along with a black oil sunflower seeds and various dry goods (oatmeal, crackers etc) that are past due from the foodbank/grocery store. They get just a small amount but is huge favourite among the bunnies.
My mixed grains are mostly oats along with a black oil sunflower seeds and various dry goods (oatmeal, crackers etc) that are past due from the foodbank/grocery store. They get just a small amount but is huge favourite among the bunnies.
Housing
I always advise people to get the biggest cage they can afford or can make. Rabbits like room to roam but not all can be safely let out of their cages.
A minimum cage size is 24 x 36 inches, larger is preferred. Larger breed bunnies are often kept in x-pens.
Solid or wire bottomed cages work well, as long as rabbits are kept clean and away from their litter. Wire cages do not cause sore hocks, wet and dirty conditions along with poor genetics cause that.
A minimum cage size is 24 x 36 inches, larger is preferred. Larger breed bunnies are often kept in x-pens.
Solid or wire bottomed cages work well, as long as rabbits are kept clean and away from their litter. Wire cages do not cause sore hocks, wet and dirty conditions along with poor genetics cause that.
Neutering/Spaying
Recommendation is to only do this surgery if your rabbit requires it. I do not routinely recommend neutering as sometimes it won't correct behaviour and rabbits are very sensitive to anesthetic and can die during surgery.
Their behaviour will indicate this need.
1. Mating behaviour that doesn’t dissipate. These behaviours include spraying (males and females), running around your feet honking, false pregnancies, moody females, etc.
2. Over-protective behaviour. Males and females being protective of their space. Males biting, some male rabbits can claim a larger area then you might expect... a whole room or house if allowed to free roam. Females acting pushy and growly and not liking if you rearrange THEIR furniture.
3. Needs of a companion rabbit. Wanting to prevent offspring or trying to bond two same gender animals.
As mentioned earlier, I generally recommend that if keeping a large breed FEMALE rabbit, get her neutered. I breed these rabbits to WANT to be momma's so hormones do play a factor in their behaviour.
I would advise calling around to different vet clinics about this surgery as prices vary.
Their behaviour will indicate this need.
1. Mating behaviour that doesn’t dissipate. These behaviours include spraying (males and females), running around your feet honking, false pregnancies, moody females, etc.
2. Over-protective behaviour. Males and females being protective of their space. Males biting, some male rabbits can claim a larger area then you might expect... a whole room or house if allowed to free roam. Females acting pushy and growly and not liking if you rearrange THEIR furniture.
3. Needs of a companion rabbit. Wanting to prevent offspring or trying to bond two same gender animals.
As mentioned earlier, I generally recommend that if keeping a large breed FEMALE rabbit, get her neutered. I breed these rabbits to WANT to be momma's so hormones do play a factor in their behaviour.
I would advise calling around to different vet clinics about this surgery as prices vary.
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