ONE ASPECT OF PREVENTATIVE DISEASE CONTROL 

When I was knee high to a weed hopper, one of my very best show rabbits came down with pasteurella. I did not know any better and gave the rabbit penicillin shots.   Back then, each rabbit was given 2 or 3 shots a day, per the vet's instructions.   Shortly thereafter, I was giving shots to 2 more rabbits. A few weeks latter it was 6 that needed shots. This became very old and certainly was counter
productive. Once I did my homework, instead of relying on a well meaning vet,
I put every rabbit with any signs of pasteurella down. 

No matter how well we manage our rabbity, sooner or later, rabbits may get sick. When  this happens, preventative disease control will include removing sick rabbits to minimize  the chance they will infect other rabbits. With today's resources there is little excuse for us  not to know better.

The ARBA "OFFICIAL GUIDE BOOK RAISING BETTER RABBITS & CAVIES"
has a chapter "Housing Equipment & Sanitation" and one on "Medical Management'.   This is the 256 page book that comes with ARBA membership and is an excellent place to find proven information on rabbits. If you are going to buy one book on rabbits, the rabbit bible would be "RABBIT PRODUCTION" by Mcnitt, Patton, Lukefahr, Cheeke, published by Interstate Publishers, Inc. The 477 page, 7th edition, has a 46 page chapter on "Rabbit Diseases and Other Health Problems". This book is based on research from Oregon State University. "RABBIT PRODUCTION" is the most comprehensive, up to date, book on rabbits.The 8th edition was published in 2000 and is the first issue to  include color pictures.(Now in the ninth edition)

There are many places we can go on the Internet for good information on all
things rabbit related. When searching, make a note of the sources information
comes from. There are many very good breeder oriented sources. If you find a
pet oriented source be careful because there is a lot of misinformation to be
found on some of these. Generally, if not in agreement, a breeder site trumps a
pet site for correct and proper advice.

A Google search of "sanitation in the rabbitry" or "Preventative disease control"
will yield many sources of information. A Google search of "rabbit euthanasia" 
will give good techniques, and explain what not to do.

There are Yahoo rabbit groups that have discussed the topics of Preventative disease control and keeping a clean rabbitry. RabbitVet comes to mind. Meatrabbits may be  the best for extensive, sometimes even graphic, but potentially professional level  information. Unlike a Google search, a key value to rabbit groups is that questions can be asked and answered. Check the archives of any rabbit group by searching key words or  phrases.

In general, I do not treat anything in my rabbity with the exceptions for parasites like mites, coccidioides, etc. I do not rely on my memory for details. I go to the books and then to the net for any possible new updates. Generally, rabbits that appear sick get 24 hours to declare themselves "not sick" or they are culled or euthanized. A one day runny nose could be from shavings or hay that found it's way up the nose. In a short time the runny nose should be resolved if this is the case.

A rabbit that was sick, even if it was successfully treated, has a genetic predisposition to get sick that it can pass on to future generations. It may be formulaic, but "Sickly rabbits beget sickly rabbits" while "healthy rabbits beget healthy rabbits". Having pet rabbits is one thing with it's own set of norms. Having a rabbit hobby with rabbits that are unhealthy, for one reason or another, including friendliness or extended age, becomes a health risks to other rabbits in the rabbitry.

A measure of one's Humanity, is how many social security animals one has.
A measure of one's Practicality, or even one's Sanity, is how few social security animals one has.

Social security rabbits are rabbits that can not be emotionally parted with that serve no useful purpose in the breeding program. Sometimes we rightfully think of these rabbits as old friends, friends that deserve a place, not only in our heart, but also in our rabbitry. Sometimes we keep these animals too long. Their health eventually fails. Not only does their existence in itself become poor, their lack of good health puts other rabbits in our care at risk even in the cleanest rabbitry 
and with the best of intentions. Knowing when it's time to take a rabbit out of the breeding program, out of the rabbitry, or when to put a rabbit to sleep is part of good rabbit husbandry.

We do have a responsibility to keep all the animals in our care well. Knowing how to find good information is important. Knowing  when to treat, and knowing when and how to implement euthanasia efficiently, or knowing someone we can call on to do this, when needed, is an important part of good animal husbandry. Preventative disease control can save a lot of cleaning and disinfecting. 
There will be a time when you have to end the suffering before it spreads.


This article was first published in the Dwarf Digest in 2011.

Forest City Rabbit Breeders’ Club

Annual A.R.B.A. TRIPLE Open, and Youth fun shows

June 28, 2014     9:00 a.m.

http://forestcityrabbitclub.webs.com
https://www.facebook.com/events/1446111865616075/

Location: Generously hosted by Gold Creek Rabbitry, Owner Betty Fletcher (Show Superintendent) 23529 Komoka Road, Komoka, Ontario, Canada, N0L 1R0 (this is only an hour from the Canada/US border at Port Huron, for American exhibitors)

Accommodations: This is our second time holding our show at this unique venue. It is a working family farm owned by our club president. It will be a beautiful, fun, family oriented EVENT. We want to encourage all exhibitors from near and far to attend as such we are offering and encouraging camping the night before the show. Tents or trailers welcome (limited hydro and water hookups) there will be a bonfire and networking time the night before. Registration/check in will also be available the night before to save you time the morning of the show. Please bring your own lawn chairs.    Hotels nearby.


Times: -Registration will be held Friday June 27, 2014 from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. and day of show, June 28, 2014 from 7 a.m. to 8:45 a.m.

-Pre-show announcements/introductions at 8:45 a.m.
-Judging starts at 9:00 a.m. sharp

Fees: This is a pre-entry Show. Pre –entries can be done online at the club website http://forestcityrabbitclub.webs.com/a-r-b-a-show or you can Email/call the Show Secretary for pre-entries

$3.50 per rabbit/per show for pre-entry, $4.50 day of show (there will be no fee or penalty for day of show scratches or switches, so all exhibitors encouraged to pre-enter to assist show secretary in organization) Cash (US or CDN) only day of show (change in CDN funds only). SPECIAL offer this year-Any single exhibitor with 20 or more entries in a single show gets a special $3.00 per rabbit entry fee

Prizes: All youth will receive prizes.

   Open show – Trophies for Best of Show and Best Opposite of Show

Judges: Kyle Yacobucci, Terry Fender and Maddie Pratt

Registrar: Beth Collins-available night before show only, NOT available day of show

Show Set Up: This is a carry case show

-Three open all breed shows, ARBA Sanctioned
- PLUS additional fun youth classes for Conformation, Judging, Pet, Showmanship) – PRIZES for ALL youth exhibitors

Breed Sanctions: Mini Rex will be sanctioned through the National Mini Rex club for all four shows.

Anyone wanting to sponsor additional breed sanctions to notify show secretary.

• Joyce Jones from http://www.bunnyview.com/ will be there selling cages and supplies
• There will be a food booth serving breakfast and lunch the day of show.
  
• There will be a for sale/trade area designated for those looking to buy or sell rabbits.
• There will be a raffle table (donations greatly appreciated, please contact show secretary).
• There will also be a 50/50 draw the day of the show.
  
• As per A.R. B.A. show regulations each rabbit shall have a permanent identifying ear mark (tattoo) in the left ear. There will be a club member providing tattoos for all exhibitors for a $2 donation to the club. **Youth Fun classes exempt from tattoo requirement, ask show secretary for clarification when pre-entering**
  
• As per A.R.B.A. show regulations, “Show management must remove from the showroom all diseased or unsightly specimens and entry fees on such specimens will be forfeited.”

For more information go to the forest City website.  You can find that HERE.  

To allow for the best organization, exhibitors are encouraged to email the show secretary well in advance to give an idea of their attendance and number of rabbits and breeds even if they are not ready to officially pre-register yet. Also all are encouraged to visit the club website http://forestcityrabbitclub.webs.com and join the site and post on the news page. It is a social forum where exhibitors and organizers can interact to help arrange potential purchases and ensure we have an idea of how many rabbits to expect at the show to ensure we are prepared.

I have tried to get this young doe bred for the past five months to no avail.  She won't lift, she just plants her butt and simply won't breed.   Ran her with a buck for 10 days and still nothing, and he even managed to get her busy and interested in life and things.  I have no room here for non-productive mouths to feed (with the exception of the lad's bun Peek).

Anyways, she's off to a new home.  The fellow is hoping that running her with his buck will get him babies but is fine if they don't as well.   He just mostly just wanting a very calm girlie and that's what Gogo is.  A VERY calm quiet giriie.   If she does happen to have babies he's promised to contact me about them as well.  So that's rather cool. 

Taught him how to trim nails as well, his fellow had fairly long nails so I showed him how to do it and how to settle him down as well.

I try to not let it bother me, but sometimes it's hard.

You want a rabbit?
Oh.. sure.. that'd be nice.  You rearrange bunnies, ready for the new arrival.
Then comes the email..oh.. I found somewhere for him to go.

And you know,.... I know it's the person's choice right.  I understand that full well.
But then why offer it to me in the first place?
Why accept my decision to take the rabbit?

Was I just an emergency... if I can't get rid of this rabbit I know she'll take it???  Is that what the mindset is?

I just find it bothersome.  I was actually looking forward to getting this rabbit today.  

I feel let down.

It makes me want to say no in the future.  I don't want to be the backup emergency plan.  If you promise me a rabbit... well then, let me have the rabbit.   

Okay.. rant over now.

I'll get on with life.  :)

It's really cold and windy out tonight so I went out planning to give the rabbits LOTS of hay to huddle in.

Three of them I gave sitting in boxes due to where the wind was coming in from as well as tons of hay.

Carma sits in her box like a little queen carefully gathering hay all around her and when she has it where she wants starts gnawing on the box.  

"X" makes a tunnel with his hay and box and then runs around like a little crazy boy as if he's saying LOOK WHAT I DID!  LOOK!!!!!  :)

Tory just quietly sits on her hay and peers out from between the stalks like she's tunneled in all safe and sound so can now survey all she sees.    

Their behaviours suit their personalities perfectly.. it's just funny to watch them.

When I have PinPin her hay she proceeded to mess it all up even more than I did and then bundled herself all up inside and starting munching away.  I am hopeful I gave her enough she won't eat it all overnight...  Acorn was delighted to get her hay but she won't sit in it or tunnel....she pushes it all into a corner and then huddles down like she's cold and just munches away.   I don't understand bunnies sometimes.... :)  I've tried giving her a box when it's chill out and she won't sit in it either so I let her make do.   What else can I do?   If I bring her in she stresses, so she's best left where she's at. 

Loverboy Biscotti is finally a dad.  This young buck is so in your face friendly and just desirous of being with the ladies, it's hard to quell him sometimes.  :)

Last night he became a first time dad.  All the kits are a healthy size and mostly content.  One of the kits is quite a little squeaker though... talk talk talk.  :)   But it's well fed so it's probably like his dad.. a precocious youngster and will most likely be the first out of the nestbox.  :)

There's a problem, and you have a newborn kit to try and raise. What can and should you do?

Before you start, there are some facts to know. Kits chill very quickly and easily, so must be kept warm and dry. Kits have very little energy reserves and need to cat within an hour or so of birth, especially if they become chilled. The average temperature in the nest of healthy kits is considerably higher than human body temperature, so simply getting them 'body warmed' is not good enough for full recovery.      To read more, go here: Bottle Feeding A Baby Rabbit


Other things you can do.
1. Get the kit warm - the easiest way I have to do this is to plop them into another litter as fast as possible.  The kit will warm up quickly and naturally without getting over heated.  If putting in with an older litter make sure the kit doesn't get buried in the bottom and suffocates.  You may have to warm towels in a drier, use a hair dryer (set on low), use a hot water bottle or something else.
2. Easiest way to raise a foster is to give them to another doe.  Most does won't have a problem fostering, but some will. You only know if you stay and watch their reaction, but for most rabbits with newborns its just a matter of plopping the kits into the nest and just leaving.
3.If another doe is not an option you'll need to look into bottle feeding and realize its not an easy road.  Some folks have the knack for it and others don't.  You won't know if you are one who does unless you give it a whirl.  

The older the kits are the easier it is to raise them.  Once you get them to day 17 they tend to do fine on their own with a sauce of milk, hay and oatmeal.  Even soaked pellets helps at that age.

Some folks have put milk on a cloth and let the kits suck the cloth.  This prevents them from breathing in milk and essentially drowning.   Different options the older the kits get.  :)

The easiest is always to find a doe who will raise them for you.  :)

One of my fascinations in life is the different ways the people approach the same topic.   When it comes to rabbits, guinea pigs and mice it's no different.    Everyone has their own opinion and methodology that works for them. :)

Today I'll talk in generalities, particularly in regard to rabbits.   Transfer as you will to guinea pigs, mice,  or whatever pet you happen to have.

Some folks prefer wire cages (I am one of them as it's the easiest way by far to keep rabbits clean and healthy).   Others prefer solid bottomed cages (they have their uses indeed).  Some prefer both.. where they have a mostly wire cage, but a section that is solid OR vice versa.  Matters not.. it's a point of preference.

some folks prefer to feed a natural diet, some prefer pellets, some do a little or everything (that's my style).   Some insist on hay daily, some are more flexible.   It's a choice.   I don't tend to like difficult breeders, ultra lazy rabbits, or rabbits that want to box with me.   I don't like bucks that will spray ME.

Some folks prefer rabbits with a bit of fight and attitude, others prefer rabbits that are calm and settled...some like them somewhere's in-between.   It's a choice.  My preference is... don't try to bite me and it's all good.  But that's my personal preference.   I like guinea pigs that settle when I hold them and aren't nutty when placed in a box.  I like mice that treat their fellow mice well and don't attack or fight.

What works for one person won't necessarily work for another.   At the end of the day what really matters is... Are your rabbits hale and hearty?   Do they thrive under your care?   Do people come happy with what you produce?  If not tweak it.  :)

And if your current herd of animals is not what you want it to be, how then do you get to where you want be?   How do you make your rabbits meet your expectations?

Breed and cull.

Breed:

the type of rabbit you want.  If you want to breed show animals, breed for the show market, if you want to breed meat rabbits for your table or your critters table, breed for that.  If you are breeding to meet the demands of a meat market....then set your aims on that.    Know what you want and then set about getting there.

There are different ways that you can do this.

1. buy stock that already meets your standard

2. buy stock that you can find around and use it to get to where you want to go.    note: with this option as you are able to find and purchase them,  buy in stock that is more in line with what you want.  It will further your problem immensely.

CULL

I can't say this enough.  Cull HARD.   You want solid meaty does that raise solid meaty kits.. well.. don't keep the runt of the litter even if it your personal favourite.  (unless you are keeping it as a pet only and only want incidental litters here and there that aren't added to your gene pool).   Keep back that solid meaty kit and cull out the rest.

If you want good show stock...don't look at their colour, look at how they are built and select those rabbits that best meet how you see the standard.  not everyone will see the standard the same way, but do your best to meet the standard of your breed.

Consider temperament issues: do you like rabbits that have no issue with you handling or working with them?   Do you like being able to do whatever you want with your rabbits (aka move them from cage to cage with no rhyme or reason)?   OR do you not mind pandering to the idosyncracies of your individual rabbits?   There are people ALL over the spectrum on this one.  :)

I make a point of wearing different clothes, carrying different items, moving rabbits around for no apparent reason other than I feel like it, I like making my rabbits as bomb proof as I can.    I play with their babies ALOT.. I get them used to having their feet played with, being pushed around a bit, being grabbed in ways unexpected because I want them to be calm and collected when being handled by people.   But I breed for rabbits that can handle that.   Some rabbits I turn out are of a more nervous temperament and don't like being moved around... I don't breed those rabbits, I find them homes where they can lead the settled quiet lives they crave.

Don't leave out health factors.

Do you want a herd that you have to keep fiddling with to keep them healthy OR do you want a herd that does what rabbits are supposed to do - which is to adapt to the surroundings they are in?

If you like fiddling... go for it.   Everyone has a greater tolerance for such things. :)

Me...  I don't want to lose kits with intestinal issues at weaning, or fight with nest box eye, teeth problems, or rabbits that get snot.  It's not something I want in my herd so I breed for health and resistance to common issues.  

When I hear of breeders who can breed their rabbits year round even in intense heat and their rabbits THRIVE without remedial help and they got there by selective breeding over the years... I say to myself... if they can do it. , I can do it too.  I can and will breed for rabbits that thrive under the care that I give them.

I will care for them, worry over them, and do my best by them.  But I won't nurse them through life.  I want rabbits with stamina! :)

Good tempered rabbits that are healthy strong rabbits that settle easily despite where they are housed is what my aim is. :)  For my polish I want them to meet the standard, for my meat rabbits.. give me good healthy litters, for my holland lops... make babies, lop your ears, and let's work toward the standard.   

Be funny, curious animals.  Make me laugh and be healthy all of you!

A frequently asked question when breeding rabbits is... if I have rabbit colour this and breed it to rabbit colour that... what colours will I get?

Well... to do that  you need to know some genetics stuff OR you can use websites that will help you OR you can go with practical experience. :)

The basics of what I know are the following
Aa (agouti, tan or self)
Bb (black or brown)
Cc (white, chin or coloured)
Dd (dominant or not dominant colour)
Ee (what happens with the colours)
and there are others beyond this

Here are some sites that might help you out.

Debmark education centre. 
a primer on rabbit genetics.

Three Little Ladies.
Another primer on learning genetics

Kim's Rabbit Hutch
Select a color from the drop down list that applies to the buck and doe you are breeding.

MammaRabbit: enter colour or genetics as you know them.

And thanks to DOOD on Rabbittalk.com we have this list.

A nice little list of the colour genotypes 

There are only two pigments in rabbit fur and the different mutations modify how these two colours are produced.
- eumelanin = black/very dark brown
- pheomelanin = yellow

A-Locus
A_ = agouti / wild type and most dominant
at_ = tan gene. A mutation that alters the concentration of black pigment in the points and saddle. Found in otters, martens and tans
aa = self. A mutation that inhibits yellow pigment production 

B-Locus
B_ = full colour concentration
bb = chocolate. A mutation that prevents eumelanin pigment from maturing into black and gives the rabbit a faded black/ brown / chocolate look

C-Locus
C_ = full colour
cchd_ = dark shaded / chinchilla. Mutation that deletes 3 of the 4 yellow pigments in the fur creating black and white colours in the fur.
cchl_ = light shaded. A mutation that eliminates both black and yellow pigments and turns a self black rabbit into a sepia colour known as sable
The next two colours are unique (along with BEW) in that they are the only ones that can completely hide any other colours under their white coats
ch_ = himilayan, sometimes referred as California coloured or pointed white.
cc = Ruby/red Eyed White (REW) 

D-Locus
D_ = full colour
dd = dilution. A mutation that reduces the amount of black pigment in the fur and creates the blue varieties of rabbits

E-Locus
Es_ = steel. A mutation only visible in agouti rabbits. It extends the black pigment band in the fur.
E_ = wild type
ej_ = japanese harlequin. Inhibits black in certain areas of the coat creating a brindle effect in solids and a spotted/patchy effect in rabbits with the English Spot gene
ee = non-extension. A mutation that completely removes the black pigment leaving just the yellows.

W-Locus
W_ = wild type
ww = wide band. Visual in agouti, tan and non extension rabbits. This mutation extends the pheomelanin band so much so that all black and white/cream areas can be eliminated and will give an impression of a self orange or self red rabbit (depending on the number of Rufus modifiers)

Si - locus
Si_ = wild type
sisi = silver. This mutation causes follicles to stop producing pigment and leave the fur white with each molt, so older rabbits will be the whitest. Generally believed to be recessive but occasionally a rabbit with one gene will show silvering. The D'Argent breeds have unidentified modifiers giving them an extream silvering effect.

P-Locus
P _ = wild type
pp = pink eyed. Very newly discovered mutation and I don't know of anyone working with it in North America. Mutation that modifies the concentrations of the two pigments in fur and eyes. Same mutation seen in Mice, Rats, Gerbils, Guinea Pigs and Hamsters.

EN-Locus
EN_ = English Spotting is co-dominant. Two of these create a mostly white rabbit called a "Charlie" and a rabbit having one is called broken. There are other less understood modifiers that increase the white creating "false Charlie's" or decrease it creating "booted brokens"
enen = solid 

V-locus
V_ = Vienna is co-dominant. Having two of theses creates Blue Eyed Whites (BEW) which like the himilayan and REW will hide a rabbits genetic colour under a white coat. Having one gene creates Vienna marked rabbits who have 5% to 95% white, usually around the toes or a snip on the nose and Vienna carriers who look like non Vienna rabbits.
vv = non Vienna / wild type

Du-locus
Du_ = wild type 
dudu = dutch. These rabbits usually have a white blaze and ring around their neck. Occasionally a rabbit with only one dutch gene will have some white marks, likely due to some unknown modifier, and it is generally considered to be fully recessive.

These two girls from Eureka and Toffee are off to a new home today.  :) Below is a picture of Ana and Elsa in their new home.