Category: Animal Welfare

New Zealands, part rescue, part purchase

7/10/2020

So I saw an ad on kijiji about some meat rabbits looking for a new home. Called the guy. Appears the neighbour is making a stink about him having rabbits. Tell me he has 7 rabbits, give me a deal if I take them all.

I show up... NINE!!! rabbits. Kept in dark cages, though with plenty of room to move around.

He's had them a year with a couple of litters here and so there are two young ones. They all left with me... three pregnant does, three open, two bucks and a young doe.

Most are New Zealand, a couple look like they have something else in them. One due next week, one due the week after, and one in three weeks. So those three will have kits while in quarantine. (maybe)

One buck and two does went to a young man who has been wanting to get into rabbits and just having a tough time getting any. So he's getting a boost.

The rest came home.

Below the young buck and doe. I would have liked to keep them separate but I hadn't anticipated these two.

The "i'm due in a week" doe I dropped into Marilyn's old cage. This doe has a WHOLE WHACK of attitude so she won't be staying any longer than necessary.

Part of that might be due to the rough handling they received from their previous owner. Moving them out we had rabbits screaming in fear. I wish he had just let me retrieve them so their first introduction to me wouldn't have been one of absolute terror.

Doe due beginning August is my "I don't know what to do with it cage". She has a small injury on her nose, not sure from where. She is actually (other than the nose thing) the prettiest of all the rabbits. Hopefully kits will result.

Doe due in two weeks is in the isolation cage. Hopefully I didn't mess them up but I'm pretty sure I have them straight.

The doe that's going off for cat food (most likely) is in a ratty cage he gave me along for transport. She's ugly, has had a failed litter, and doesn't keep herself very clean. She's tucked away under the isolation cage. She's a bit of a wild child, again this might be handling issues. But the other stuff going on, she's not worth keeping. She did dive into the food as soon as I gave her some. I do wonder how much he fed them, there was no feed in any of the cages.

Next Day Update

So I ended up culling the buck, he had ear mites, which yes, I know is easily treatable, but he had this odd sound to his lungs as well. Upon death I discovered an odd lung.

The young doe I simply had no room for, and I didn't like having her in the dog kennel. So she joined the young male. She turned out to, at about 2.5 months old, to be about 1 week pregnant. I know accidents happen but she would have simply been too young to have littles.

The doe in the small cage has been culled as well. She was a very fearful girl and I was told had two failed litters. Oddly enough, she only had one kidney.

The pretty girl has shown the most resilience. She's cleaning up all her food and seems to be more curious about her new living situation than anything else.

The grumpy girl continues to be wildly grumpy. I've given her a nestbox and she's doing some nesting behaviours so perhaps we'll get kits from her. She's not eating particularly well and is very frightened.

The girlie in the isolation cage is afraid but not bounce around the cage afraid, I think with time she'll come around.

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Building An Isolation Cage

5/15/2020

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You may recall that last week I talked about the importance of a isolation area for new to you rabbits. Today I thought I'd talk about how to build a simple isolation cage.

What You Need

You'll need an appropriately sized cage. Most of my rabbits are in 24 x 30 inch cages. My larger buns are in four foot cages. This way everyone has lots of room to move around.

I recently upgraded one of my cages so had this older one which will serve just fine as a temporary cage for a new bun. I wanted it well protected from the weather. So I needed to consider heat and wind factors. Since it Covid time I didn't want to go through the fuss of getting wood from the lumber yard, and have a preference for the more inexpensive route.

So three pallets (two small ones) one normal sized. Plus three planks off another pallet did the trick. For waterproofing I used a weather proof cover we had over an old lawnmower. OH, and I used some old wood off some gardens I replaced this summer.

I used a variety of screws from one inch through 2.5 inch.

How to Build

First you need to sort out your frame. You'll want the cage up off the ground for the health of your bunnies.

I spaced out my two small pallets and put the support up. I needed the help of my 14 year old for this part. He helped me put on one support and then to measure out the distance for placing the other support. Once I had one board on I was good to go.

SimiI have to admit I was so busy I didn't take pictures of every step. After I completed this stage I removed boards from another pallet. They got roughly cut to a number of different lengths. Since this was just a quick build I didn't measure accurately, I mostly eye-balled it or measured off a piece already cut. The nail ends of boards got tossed into our fire pit. Once they burn down I can use a magnet to get the nails out of the coals.

Three boards were used as the support for the tray. I thought about leaving it open to let the waste fall to the ground to be swept up but since isolation requires monitoring, it's easier to monitor waste using a tray. These boards were the support pieces from the pallet I tore apart plus leftover wood.

I cut up some of the thin pieces to add to the sides to help block wind around the tray, and to have a spot for a cage support since this cage did not have a tray support.

The cage was supported with some L brackets. Similar to these brackets from Amazon (aff. link).

My tenant's son was over visiting today so I called him out for some advise. How to I raise the sides enough to make a roof over the cage?

He suggested I cut some of the thin pallet wood to size, that would give us the additional 8 inches we would need. He helped me screw them all on as close together as we could manage for uneven pallet wood.

I then placed my old garden wood along the back and the top cutting most of the rotten wood off to make relatively even edges.

This support around the cage isn't exactly waterproof so I added an old waterproof cover, using some 1 inch screw to secure it on the top and around the back.

I placed the cage in relatively sheltered location under the shade of trees and mostly out of the prevailing winds. I well imagine a bun would be pretty comfortable in this cage. In the winter I'll add feed bags stapled all around to block any winds that might creep up and have a small tarp to roll down the front at night.

Keeping the wood off the wet ground is important so the whole thing was placed up on bricks. It is very steady and secure.

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The Importance of Isolation

5/8/2020

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Do you know the importance of isolation? Of keeping animals separate and away from your herd for at least 30 days? Protect your herd, protect your new animal as well.

Why Isolate?

Rabbits are animals that are masters at hiding illness. You can have what looks like a perfectly healthy animal in front of you. Passes all your tests for an animal that you want to purchase, but hidden beneath the surface may be an illness that you don't want to bring home with you. But how would you even know?

Illnesses that hide: pasteurella, e.cunniculi, Coccidiosis, etc
Illnesses easily missed: vent disease, ear mites, sore hocks, abscesses, etc.

This is why isolation is so important. The stress of moving from one place to another is often just what is needed to bring hidden illnesses to the forefront. As well the time in isolation, when you are watching your new bunny closely, can show you things that you might have missed when you first looked over your new rabbit.

Where to place your isolation cage

You want to place your isolation area in a place close enough to get to easily, but far enough away that illness won't spread.

At least 20 feet away from other rabbits.

What to do during isolation

Feed and care for the rabbit in isolation AFTER you care for your other rabbits. Change your clothes and wash your hands before going back to your original rabbits.

Watch for any signs of illness. Snot, hunching up, weepy eyes, unusual fecal output, bloat, etc.

Give your new rabbit a thorough check over once a week. Look for contusions, abscesses, sore feet, overgrown nails, blisters around nose or vent, teeth and more.

What if your new rabbit is sick

If you discover sickness within the first 24 hours...contact the person you bought the rabbit from. Hopefully they will stand behind their rabbit and do what is right. Helping you to solve your problem, or taking the rabbit back and give you a healthy one.

Generally after 24 hours the most you can get from a breeder is helpful advice. Suggestions about how to help the rabbit, or more information about condition, and so forth.

If you have managed to "get taken", or involved with an unethical breeder, all you can is cull a serious ill rabbit (pasteurella is one such illness), or treat (most other illnesses). Only you can decide how much effort to put into helping your new purchase.

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Pros and Cons of Selling Bunnies at Easter

4/5/2020

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The debate comes up every single year.

Should people sell bunnies at Easter, or close up shop until Easter is over. In the past I've been on the fence, but now... I say do whatever works for you. If you want to sell bunnies, do that. If you don't think it's a good idea, then don't. In today's post I thought I'd give you the pros and cons of selling Bunnies at Easter.

The Cons

The biggest con of selling bunnies at Easter

1. Impulse shoppers, the people who go, "OH!! It's Easter, I'd better get a bunny for the kids!" These folks are usually pretty easy to spot as they want the cheapest bunny, doesn't matter the colour OR they want the flashiest bunny for the lowest price they can bargain for. They usually ONLY want babies, no adults need apply and they ask questions like "does it bite", "they do okay on carrots right?" "is it friendly with kids?" Think it through if you want to sell to these folks, I've seen the good and the bad come out of this... more good than bad to be honest. In 15 years of raising rabbits I've had less than 15 returned, about 40 rehomed by six months, but many (if not most) live out their lives in the homes they went to. All in all that's less than 5% of rabbits sold.

2. For my two year old. I have to admit that this in particular one drives me crazy. Who buys a pet for their two year old? A toddler can't take care of themselves much less a rabbit. I've actually talked people OUT of getting a bunny because they honestly thought a two year could care for a bunny on their own. It still boggles my mind.

3. HRS agenda; The house rabbit society would happily tell you not to buy a bunny at Easter because they are the third most abandoned rabbit in the US. They fail to tell you this is a meaningless statistic. Rabbits are lumped together with ANY OTHER small animal abandoned in the states so of course they are going to come in third. Seriously, any group of animals that is all be lumped together would come in third after cats and dogs. Lizards are the third most abandoned pets, birds are the third most abandoned pet etc etc. ...

The Pros

1. Spring time babies: People like to say that rabbits will breed all year round. NUTS TO THAT! There are three months in the later fall where it is difficult to get your does bred. Come mid-January and the does are like "HEY!! We want to be mommas!" Seasonal challenges are real, but breed in January/February and you'll have babies ready to leave homes at ... Easter. That's just how the math goes. So selling bunnies at Easter is more like selling bunnies when they are old enough to leave home and Easter just happens to be there. The sheer number of people who tell me "I've been waiting and waiting for baby bunnies, I'm so glad you have them, we've been planning on adding a bunny, and this way I can make it an Easter present". What parents doesn't like to kill two birds with one stone?

2. Adding a pet: Just because it happens to be Easter, why shouldn't we allow people to add a pet to their household? What does the time of year have to do with anything? A bunny is a bunny at Easter, the same way it is in July.

3. Smiles. Don't you think smiles are worth something? An excited child who has been waiting all year and proven herself, allowed to pick out the bunny she's been working so hard toward?

4. Education. Since people are buying bunnies with a purpose (to be a child or family pet) you have more time at Easter to properly educate people on the care and needs of bunnies. Once people know the basics, they are enabled to give the bunny a good start and as they become more comfortable decide how they want to raise their bunny.

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Gestation, Grooming, Giant Rabbits

4/11/2019

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You'll find a rabbit post on the "g's" of rabbits located here. In this article I talked about Gestation, grooming and giant rabbits.

Wafer is the largest rabbit I own. She is half Flemish Giant. She is a bossy but easy for everyone to get along with. She just knows what she wants and that I usually give it to her without much fuss. :)

Flemish Giants are the most common giant breed of rabbit in North America. They are very similar to the Continental Giant.

Baby rabbits are normally born 31 days after breeding. Their mom makes them a lovely nest of fur and bedding and cares for them once or twice a day.

This is a picture of Horatio. He was going through a heavy moult and needed help to feel comfortable. I needed to bring him out to my board over the compost bin and pull out his tufts of fur and also run my hands through this fur backwards while slightly damp. Doing this for 10 days helped him get through his moult without being too uncomfortable.

Anyways, go read the full article here!

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Errors in Judgement

3/26/2019

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No one is perfect in how they raise their rabbits, mistakes will happen. The only question is, can you learn from them?

These mistakes vary from small to large and sometimes happen because events outside the rabbitry intervene. Join me as we talk about Errors in Judgement.

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Discussing Death

3/26/2019

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If you raise animals, death will become part of the equation.

I don’t know of any rabbit breeder who hasn’t experience death in their rabbitry. Now I know, I just finished talking to you about culling. I’m not talking about the deliberate death that you either choose or is needful, I’m speaking to the unexpected death that happens.

Discussing Death .it is not an easy thing to do, but very necessary.

Illness, injury, stress, weather concerns and more. Death comes for a variety of reasons. Read more here.

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Culling Well

3/15/2019

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An important aspect of raising rabbits (or any animal for that matter) is removing animals from your herd.

Sometimes this removal is planned

Breeding rabbits for show and needing to sell those who don't qualify
Deliberate breeding for companion animals
Breeding for food production
Raising up youngsters and no longer needing their parents
Choosing to downsize

At other times, it's just not planned

sick animals
animal didn't sell you thought would
animal returned to you
outside influences: Illness, family concerns, jobs, school, etc.

Regardless of the Reason

You need to know your options for culling well. This article will help.

In a nutshell you can sell or kill.

Sell

Only animals that are temperamentally and physically sound. Do not sell animals that are sick. You have no business ethically of passing along your problem to someone else. I know that sometimes animals get sick moving into a new home, I get that. Stress does weird things to rabbits. I'm not talking about rabbits who end up completely surprising you with health issues. What i mean is deliberately selling a rabbit who isn't eating, blows snot, has a weepy eye or whatever. Just don't do it.

Sell well. Honestly answer questions about your rabbits. Give out accurate pedigrees, Do what you say you will.

Cull

Anything you aren't selling. Make sure you have a back up method if your primary method fails for whatever reason.

You can

use them as food (yourself, pets, other animals)
bury them (enrich the soil)
bring them to a forest for animals to enjoy
donate to a wild animal rescue, zoo

Go On... go read the full article!

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Quick Rabbit Carrier Build

1/21/2017

Sometimes one doesn't have access to an all wire carrier OR you need something that will house a rabbit differently over a few days.

Enter in the Rubbermaid Carrier.

Rubbermaid carrier are fairly easy to do. You need some decent tools.

A sharp knife
Wire cutters
zipties
Rubbermaid container
wire
Drill with two different sizes bits
Jigsaw

Measure out where you want your wire to go. Cut your wire to the appropriate size. Hold it up where you are going to place it and trace around the outside with a dark marker. Measure in about 1.5 cm in from the wire edge, this is where you will cut the opening.

Use The bigger bit to make a hole big enough for the jigsaw blade to fit through. Use a narrow blade.

Go slowly and don't be surprised if you can only do one cut or possibly two, depends on the thickness of your rubbermaid container. Mine were fairly thin, so we made one cut with the jigsaw and cut the rest with a very sharp knife.

Once you have the plastic cut, use a drill bit just big enough for your ziptie to go through and drill all around your marked line for the wire. We marked where we drilled with the ziptie, and drill two holes, one on each side of the dark line (where the wire will be placed).

Put the wire on the INSIDE of the carrier to prevent rabbit from nibbling on the plastic. Then trim the ziptie ends short.

When you are done you will have a carrier that will work as an emergency bunny nesting site in the winter, as a carrier to take to shows or to just transport a rabbit.

In this particular case the carrier cost us $6.oo. We already had all the supplies.

Fit the rabbit to the box. This rubbermaid carrier will fit a rabbit up to 3 lbs, after that you will be looking into larger rubbermaid containers.

You can make them so they open from the side AND the top. If you are confident in your abilities you could wire on two sides. They are stackable if you need to bring in more than one rabbit in the winter.

I made this one to transport a small rabbit that had to sit for a week at a transporters home without having to worry if the carrier didn't come home. BUT with the view in mind of living in southwestern Ontario and occasionally having to bring kindling does in the house during hard cold spells.

This could also be used as a guinea pig or other small animal carrier. Change the size of the wire as needed.

Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease in Quebec

9/1/2016

Important message, please SPREAD THE WORD TO ALL BREEDERS:

Limit rabbits movements; sales, purchases, agricultural exhibitions, shows, rallies.

If suspected, contact 1-844-ANIMALS; unusual symptoms, mortality, etc.

This is the statement from the Canadian Food Inspection Agency:

Declaration: Survey of a local outbreak of rabbit haemorrhagic disease in Quebec

August 25, 2016 - Ottawa (Ontario) - Government of Canada

The Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) investigation of a local outbreak of rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD) in small recreational farms East-du-Québec.

A survey is conducted on three farms near Rimouski, Quebec. The three farms are under quarantine to control the movements of animals, products and equipment and to prevent the spread of the disease. The outbreak is restricted to small recreational farms. Rabbits breeding commercial farms are not subject to this investigation.

The rabbit haemorrhagic disease is highly contagious and often fatal for the affected rabbits. This virus is transmitted to other rabbits through secretions, including saliva, eyes and nose runny, urine, feces and bedding, contaminated food and water. It can also be spread accidentally by humans, wildlife and insects or infected meat or fur.

The disease does not affect humans and has never been known impacts in other animals.

We remind operators of commercial and recreational farms to use biosecurity practices to minimize the risk of spread of the disease. Producers must do the following:

Report any suspicious symptoms to a veterinarian or provincial veterinary authority. 1-844-animals

Do not introduce new rabbits in their establishment if the animals come from a place where there was illness or death during the previous 60 days.

The CFIA is working with the province of Quebec as part of this survey and will provide updates as they become available.

UPDATE!!!!
Update on the Quebec Rabbit Hemmorhagic Disease. Only two PET rabbits at ONE person's home tested positive for the disease in Rimouski Quebec. The other two farms are under quarantine only because of the close proximity to the one hobby farm. This information came from the Veterinarian in Rimouski. No info yet on where the rabbits got this disease from. There are NO other cases.

What is RVHD?

Rabbit Viral Hemorrhagic Disease (VHD) is a highly contagious disease caused by a calicivirus that affects only rabbits of the Oryctolagus cuniculus species. This includes wild and domesticated European rabbits, from which our own domesticated rabbits are descended. It has not been known to affect any North American native rabbits or hares, such as cottontails, snowshoe hares and jackrabbits. VHD is also known by several other acronyms: RHD (Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease), RCV (Rabbit Calicivirus), and RCD (Rabbit Calicivirus Disease). VHD was first seen in China in 1984, and has since spread to Mexico, Continental Europe, Israel, the UK, Australia and New Zealand.
Symptoms may include:

Loss of appetite
Lethargy
High Fever
Spasms
Sudden death

VHD, however, is often a very swift and sudden killer, giving little warning. Rabbits may die without showing any symptoms at all. Some bleeding from the nose, mouth and rectum is sometimes seen. Any sudden rabbit death is suspicious and should be reported to your veterinarian or the State Veterinarian as a possible case of VHD

The incubation period of this disease is very short, and rabbits may die within 48 hours of exposure to the virus that causes VHD.
The death rate of rabbits exposed to this virus is very high, between 50 and 100%, with the latter number probably being closer to actual mortality rates. Rabbits who survive this disease are carriers and shed the virus for at least 42 days, perhaps longer.
Rabbit calicivirus is a very hardy virus, remaining viable in the environment for 105 days at 68F (i.e. remains stable for 105 days at room temperature) and for 225 days at 39F. It resists freezing.
There is no known cure for VHD. Vaccinations are available in countries where the disease in endemic, but there is no vaccine currently available in the US.

Suggestion:

Do not buy any rabbits from Quebec at this time. We have no vaccine available in Canada. Exercise caution when buying rabbits from breeders who have shown rabbits in or near Quebec. Contain this rabbit deadly virus.

<<Previous

New Zealands, part rescue, part purchase

Next Day Update

Building An Isolation Cage

What You Need

How to Build

The Importance of Isolation

Why Isolate?

Where to place your isolation cage

What to do during isolation

What if your new rabbit is sick

Pros and Cons of Selling Bunnies at Easter

The Cons

The Pros

Gestation, Grooming, Giant Rabbits

Errors in Judgement

Discussing Death

Culling Well

Regardless of the Reason

Sell

Cull

Quick Rabbit Carrier Build

Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease in Quebec

What is RVHD?

Suggestion:

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