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The "A" rabbits of the world

4/10/2021

4 Comments

 
So some friends of mine are doing a blogging challenge and I thought it might be fun to talk about bunnies.  I want to learn about some breeds of rabbits I am not familiar with, and thought you might like to come along for the ride.   Today I'll be talking about The "A" rabbits of the world. 
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Region Specific Rabbits

I learned about some rabbits that are area specific such as the Armenian Marder (from Armenia) and the Aurora Negro (from Guatemala).  Neither of these rabbits are well-known and are used for meat production. 

The Aurora Negro is large rabbit weighing 8-10 lbs. They come in blue-gray, gray, black, and white with black spots.   Whereas the Armenian Marder weighs 8.8-9.9 lbs with an average litter size of 8. 

Germany is host to the Alaska rabbit. It is a medium-sized rabbit breed, weighing around 7-9 lbs.   This rabbit has glossy black fur.  It only comes in black. 

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Rabbits I've known about and have seen! 

I've long known about the various renditions of Angora.  You'll find French, English, Satin and Giant.  Rabbits bred mostly for their wool and calmer temperaments, they can also make good meat rabbits. 

The bunny above is NOT an angora but did have the hugely wooly coat that Angoras have.  :)  He is somewhat reminiscent of an American Fuzzy Lop though....

Others that I've known about
  • American Sable - Nice rabbits when you see them.
  • Argente Brun - I love the colour changes these bunnies go through.  Beautiful animals. 
  • American Fuzzy Lop - gag, all that wool, not for me thanks!  But I can see why people love them.
  • American Chinchilla - would love to own these as I love the chinchilla colour.  :) 
  • Altex - I've only seen pictures of these meat rabbits.
  • Astrex - I've had a couple pop up when I had mini rex.  Curly coats, such an interesting coat.
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There are a number of Argente breeds which I think are mostly just coat colour variations.   See Wikipedia for more.
  • Argente Noir
  • Argente Clair
  • Argente St. Hubert
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Building An Isolation Cage

5/15/2020

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You may recall that last week I talked about the importance of a isolation area for new to you rabbits.  Today I thought I'd talk about how to build a simple isolation cage. 
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What You Need

You'll need an appropriately sized cage.  Most of my rabbits are in 24 x 30 inch cages.  My larger buns are in four foot cages.  This way everyone has lots of room to move around. 

I recently upgraded one of my cages so had this older one which will serve just fine as a temporary cage for a new bun.   I wanted it well protected from the weather.   So I needed to consider heat and wind factors.   Since it Covid time I didn't want to go through the fuss of getting wood from the lumber yard, and have a preference for the more inexpensive route.

So three pallets (two small ones) one normal sized.  Plus three planks off another pallet did the trick.  For waterproofing I used a weather proof cover we had over an old lawnmower.   OH, and I used some old wood off some gardens I replaced this summer. 

I used a variety of screws from one inch through 2.5 inch.

How to Build

First you need to sort out your frame.  You'll want the cage up off the ground for the health of your bunnies. 

I spaced out my two small pallets and put the support up.  I needed the help of my 14 year old for this part.   He helped me put on one support and then to measure out the distance for placing the other support. Once I had one board on I was good to go. ​
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SimiI have to admit I was so busy I didn't take pictures of every step.  After I completed this stage I removed boards from another pallet.  They got roughly cut to a number of different lengths.  Since this was just a quick build I didn't measure accurately, I mostly eye-balled it or measured off a piece already cut.   The nail ends of boards got tossed into our fire pit.  Once they burn down I can use a magnet to get the nails out of the coals. 

Three boards were used as the support for the tray.  I thought about leaving it open to let the waste fall to the ground to be swept up but since isolation requires monitoring, it's easier to monitor waste using a tray.   These boards were the support pieces from the pallet I tore apart plus leftover wood. 

I cut up some of the thin pieces to add to the sides to help block wind around the tray, and to have a spot for a cage support since this cage did not have a tray support. 

The cage was supported with some L brackets.  Similar to these brackets from Amazon (aff. link). 
My tenant's son was over visiting today so I called him out for some advise.  How to I raise the sides enough to make a roof over the cage?

He suggested I cut some of the thin pallet wood to size, that would give us the additional 8 inches we would need.   He helped me screw them all on as close together as we could manage for uneven pallet wood. 

I then placed my old garden wood along the back and the top cutting most of the rotten wood off to make relatively even edges.  
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This support around the cage isn't exactly waterproof so I added an old waterproof cover, using some 1 inch screw to secure it on the top and around the back. 

I placed the cage in relatively sheltered location under the shade of trees and mostly out of the prevailing winds.  I well imagine a bun would be pretty comfortable in this cage.  In the winter I'll add feed bags stapled all around to block any winds that might creep up and have a small tarp to roll down the front at night. 

Keeping the wood off the wet ground is important so the whole thing was placed up on bricks.   It is very steady and secure. 
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The Importance of Isolation

5/8/2020

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Do you know the importance of isolation?  Of keeping animals separate and away from your herd for at least 30 days?  Protect your herd, protect your new animal as well. 
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Why Isolate?

Rabbits are animals that are masters at hiding illness.  You can have what looks like a perfectly healthy animal in front of you.  Passes all your tests for an animal that you want to purchase, but hidden beneath the surface may be an illness that you don't want to bring home with you.   But how would you even know?

Illnesses that hide: pasteurella, e.cunniculi, Coccidiosis, etc
Illnesses easily missed: vent disease, ear mites, sore hocks, abscesses, etc.

 This is why isolation is so important.  The stress of moving from one place to another is often just what is needed to bring hidden illnesses to the forefront. As well the time in isolation, when you are watching your new bunny closely, can show you things that you might have missed when you first looked over your new rabbit. 
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Where to place your isolation cage

You want to place your isolation area in a place close enough to get to easily, but far enough away that illness won't spread. 

​At least 20 feet away from other rabbits. 

What to do during isolation

Feed and care for the rabbit in isolation AFTER you care for your other rabbits.  Change your clothes and wash your hands before going back to your original rabbits. 

Watch for any signs of illness.  Snot, hunching up, weepy eyes, unusual fecal output, bloat, etc.

Give your new rabbit a thorough check over once a week.  Look for contusions, abscesses, sore feet, overgrown nails, blisters around nose or vent, teeth and more. 
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What if your new rabbit is sick

If you discover sickness within the first 24 hours...contact the person you bought the rabbit from.  Hopefully they will stand behind their rabbit and do what is right.  Helping you to solve your problem, or taking the rabbit back and give you a healthy one. 

Generally after 24 hours the most you can get from a breeder is helpful advice.  Suggestions about how to help the rabbit, or more information about condition, and so forth. 

If you have managed to "get taken", or involved with an unethical breeder, all you can is cull a serious ill rabbit (pasteurella is one such illness), or treat (most other illnesses).   Only you can decide how much effort to put into helping your new purchase. 
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Make Pedigrees from non-pedigreed rabbits

5/4/2020

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I was talking with a new rabbit breeder this morning who (it seemed to me) was disclaiming her non-pedigreed rabbits who she had turned into pets.  I mentioned she can easily make her own pedigrees.  I think she was surprised. 

So HOW do you make pedigrees from non-pedigreed rabbits?
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Rabbits are show by phenotype not genotype

Unlike in the world of other animals where pedigrees really truly matter.  People want/need to trace their animals back to foundational animals that need is not present in the rabbit world.   Is it nice to know?  For sure! But rabbits have been primarily a food animal for a very long time and have been judged more by their type then by their pedigree for a very long time. 

If you have a rabbit that looks like a dutch, you can show it as a dutch even if you have no pedigree.  Same thing with Netherland dwarf, Flemish giant, Holland lops or mini rex.   What matters most is what the animal looks like. 

Where do you start

Here you are with your rabbit of unknown origin.  You know their colour and general build. 
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Take for instance, this fellow.  Looks like a holland lop, has the approximate size of a holland lop.   Call him George.
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You breed George to Tilda also a non-pedigreed holland lop type. 
​This gets you your first generation.  A doe you've named Lincoln.
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You breed Lincoln to DarkSun and get your second generation.  You might have a bit more information that you have recorded about DarkSun like colour.   Write down as much information as you can.  Weight at six months, colour, date of birth etc.   If you have a rabbit that is more pedigreed, use them to fill out your pedigree a bit more.   

​Be honest on your pedigreed.  If you have mixed in a netherland dwarf into your pedigree to bring down the size of your large holland lops, kept the breed on your pedigree so people will know that. 
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Each generation gives you another generation on your pedigree.  Keep collecting information.  Add it to your pedigree.  Colour, weight (6 mths),  tattoo,  etc.  
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Until eventually you get a third generation pedigree.  Three generations is the minimum number accepted on a pedigree, four is better but three is acceptable. 
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For me in my rabbitry, if I'm starting a pedigree from an unknown rabbit I keep one of out each successive generation and sell the less pedigreed parent into a pet home. 

This way you continue to move forward in your quest to get fully pedigreed animals. 

​NOW I do have to say this.  If you have a fine looking fellow like this who is CLEARLY a mutt it would be helpful to keep a pedigree program for him.  BUT he is not any define-able breed, so you would merely be pedigree-ing the offspring in order to help your record keeping, or perhaps to start your very own breed.   

Cheta is a dwarf type and I'd love to start my own dwarf breed with his colouring and attitude. But he's not a particular breed, a real little mutt.  :)  Perhaps I can create a breed called "The Cheta Dwarf"  :) 
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An affordable pedigree program is Kintraks.  The owner is based out of Australia and you can use it to pedigree any animal species that you have.  One life-time fee.  Regular upgrades included.   Costs... about $25. 
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When Rabbits Annoy

3/18/2017

 
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So BrightSong's first litter with me was a bit slow to start but overall she did an excellent job with them.  Her kits ended up being little butterballs so fed them so well.  I had HIGH HOPES for her next litter.

Her second...not so good but potentially my fault as she didn't pull sufficient fur so thought I'd add some...most rabbits are fine with that, but Song apparently was NOT.   Dug out the box and I only saved two which I promptly fostered.

This litter she AGAIN pulled very little fur and the two does I bred to go with her kindled late.  I saved chilled kits and brought them in the house to keep warm (the kits) but Song never got around to producing milk...

So as soon as I could I fostered them to SunnyRock as I know she feeds her kits well and she only had one.. but chilled once kits are easily chilled again AND they'd gone without food for a couple days so it was cross your fingers and hope! Last night I went out and found one dead, one almost dead and one doing fine (and well fed).  The one almost dead looked like it had gotten chilled again.

SINCE two kits (Sunny's single, and Song's one left) can't keep themselves warm I fostered them over the Daisy.   

​All were looking good this morning AND fed.  WOOT WOOT. 

In the future Song will only be bred with at least two other does, and come spring she'll be looking for a new home.   She's a very mild-mannered doe so I expect I can get her into a pet home no problems.  Time will tell.

Coat Colour Patterns

1/11/2015

 
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My goal in this post is to introduce you to some basic coat colour patterns.

The two main coat patters you will come across in rabbits are solid and broken.
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This rabbit (Magic) is a solid black holland lop boy.   As you can see he is all one solid colour.  This coat pattern is called solid.   This other rabbit is a solid chocolate polish named Mittens.   I don't breed a lot of solid rabbits except in polish.  I like the broken and harlequin colours along with a smattering of agouti the best in my rabbits.
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Georgia (broken black polish) and Acorn (broken chestnut holland lop) are two examples of broken.  Broken means white with another recognized colour.   It is different than vienna marked or harlequin.   It's a distinct colour patterning.. can be heavier or light (such as a booted broken, or a very light broken called a charlie).
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Here we have two examples of the harlequin colour.  Harry (black magpie) and holland lop baby pet (black japanese) show off the main colour variation of this colour pattern.   Magpie is white with black, blue, lilac or chocolate) Japanese is red with black, blue, lilac or chocolate).   Harlequin is a confusing colour because it is also a breed of rabbit.  Harry is a harlequin breed rabbit which comes in the harlequin patterning.   They are to have a split face, opposite colouring on their feet and banding along the opposing sides.   it's a fascinating type to breed for.   This is one of my favourite colour patterns.
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Agouti... I think Mousewhisker is a chocolate agouti.   Silver was a blue chinchilla.  I would LOVE to have a bunch of chinchilla coloured rabbits in my barn.  But breeding chinchilla gives alot of chestnut... and chestnut I'm not real keen on..it's like having a bunch of cottontails running about (and I have enough of those in my yard as well).  :)   Agouti is a specific colour patterns that has rings in the fur.  white, black, and other colour.  The other colour defines what TYPE of agouti it is.
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Shaded rabbits.   PinPin is a black tort, IvyPool  is a Siamese Sable.    Shaded rabbits have darker color on the feet, ears, tail, and head. These areas fade to a lighter shade on the rest of the body.     Shadeds include: Sable Points, Siamese Sables, Seal, Smoke Pearls and Tortoise (Tort for short).
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Rabbits with the tan gene come in two varieties... silver marten or otter.   This pattern is recognized with ear lacing, a triangle behind the head, lacing around the eyes, and in the crease of the nose.   It is either a silver colour or a tan colour.
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The vienna gene.   The blue eyed white factor.   These are some kits off a doe rescued who appeared to either be an oddly marked broken or with the odd marking of a vienna marked rabbit.  They show very much that she was a vienna marked rabbit.   Vienna marks can be a snip down the face, a white paw on a solid rabbit, a broken rabbits whose spots are "off" from the normal broken pattern, blue eyes, dutch markings with no dutch in the background.  It can cause havoc for a long time in a line of rabbits.   One can breed with it or try to remove it from one's herd.   It can be frustrating to work with.   The kit i nthe middle is a normal blue-eyed white rabbit.  All three are vienna marked, making them vienna gene carriers.

So that in a nutshell are the basic colour patterns that you will run into.   There are others since breeding one rabbit to another can lead to some interesting genetics being shown   Like tricolour rabbits with tan ear lacing.   Orange rabbits with smutty noses from having a shaded in the background.  You can have steels (which look a lot like an agouti but with a gold or sliver tip to the hair shaft).

Hopefully you found this helpful.  
Tell me if you would please, what colour rabbit do you have?

Breeding Rabbits - a tutorial

8/17/2014

 
In order to raise rabbits I need to know how to breed them   And though what I know isn't complete, I've learned a thing or two about doing so.  :)

I thought I'd share what a normal breeding OUTSIDE the bucks cage would look like.

First complete a health check.  Clean eyes, ears, nose, vent/penis.  No matting of front paws or groin region.  Nothing that was missed in daily checks.  You want rabbits that are both in excellent health (minus any moulting issues).   Wafer bucked a bit when I checked her vent which is a signal that she was ready to bred.  I figured she would as she's been temperamental that last few days which is how her mom would get as well.   Wafer is a flemish giant cross.

Red Max is kept in a standard cage, adding a big doe like Wafer means that the cage is a wee bit cramped so Red Max and his date come outside the cage to make each others acquaintance.

Here they say hi to each other in bunny language.  Note the ears are pricked forward for Max and the head is lower for Wafer.  Her ears aren't flat back like she's scared or unhappy, just a young doe saying hi to a mature buck.
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This prompted Wafer to do what many does do.  Race around madly.   You'd think she was scared of him by how madly she was racing around, but everytime he'd look at her sideways she'd stop and look him over.  Isn't she a gorgeous girl?    

NOTE: the tail flaps (just like her momma's does when she's in the mood)  Bright expression, ears forward.. not the frightened look of a young doe looking for the quickest way out of dodge.
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Anyways, everytime he'd look at her sideways and approach her she'd stop and flatten herself to the ground.  He'd come over and say hi, sniff her over and occasionally paw at her which.... prompted her to run around like a mad duck again.

NOTE: the lowered head, the NOT flattened to the body ears, the flat look with her legs back and not tucked under.  Ears flat to the body, low grunts and legs tucked under is a frightened doe in no mood to breed (generally speaking).   Some does have ODD body language.
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Eventually the two of them would finish the whole courtship aspect of their date.  He approached, she lifted her rear end
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and he finished.  doing the classic curl and fall over routine.  No squeal.  He's a very quiet grunter.
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Even though I knew everything went as planned, I gave them a moment to recover themselves and then I flipped Wafer over to make sure that she did have ejactulate where it was supposed to be.   I've had more than one buck look to complete the deed only to find it on the tail, or on the backside, or somewhere other than intended, so doing a quick flip is beneficial.  It also gives the buck a moment to go "HEY, that worked.. now breathe a moment cause...ooh.. we get to do it again!".  :)

That's how I do an out of the cage breeding.   It works for me.  :)

Health Check when Getting a New Rabbit

8/8/2014

7 Comments

 
It's important when you are getting a new rabbit to check it over for signs of good health before taking that rabbit home.  It's doesn't help the hidden illnesses that only become symptomatic after the rabbit is in it's new home, but it helps to cut out some of the obvious.

EYES
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Are the eyes bright and clear?   No weeping, odd spots, tearing, debris in the corner, no red areas, excessive white showing?   
EARS
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No mites or other signs of illness.   No unexplained rips or tears or frostbite damage.  Furred decently?  Tattooed if necessary?
TEETH/NOSE
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Good colour?   Developing properly?  Not butting, no Malocclusion, no underbite.  Nothing that seems "off" to you.  Just regular ordinary rabbit teeth.     While here check that nose out carefully.  No hidden signs of snot at all?   Clean, no damage, looks like a good normal nose?
FEET
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No matting on those front paws that indicated sneezing/snot issues.  Not broken?  Check those nails that they are the correct colour and not missing. (important for breeding/show homes, not so important for pet homes).
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Well furred, no sores, all toes/nails etc.   
Gender Check
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Make sure your boy is a boy and  your girl is a girl.  CHECK.  If you don't, you've no cause to complain.   Know what to look for.  Boys look like a pointy burrito and depending on age will have testes and a penis emerge.  Girls will have two thin red lines on either side of the vent.  They tend to look like a taco (so to speak).

IF I am not sure on a bunnies gender I will say so, some bunnies mature late and simply are hard to sex.   Most of the time I am right on my genders, but sometimes I am wrong.  Judges get it wrong sometimes as well.  :)
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Reasons to Cull

5/23/2014

 
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click image to go to source
Other reasons to cull
  • poor mothering
  • bad temperament
  • improve disease immunity
  • health reasons
  • Disease control
  • Sterility
  • hit the three strikes rule (for whatever reasons)
  • Animal doesn't fit with your management style.

What's in your garden?

5/8/2014

 
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Rabbit manure is such a useful thing to have around when you are a gardener and if you are a gardener...the rabbits will thank you.  :)

IN this garden I have planted various items that will appeal to the rabbits.
Peas, beans, carrots, various lettuces, plaintain, radishes (love the greens), turnips (love the greens), parley and more.  My son was very helpful in getting the garden planted and marked off.  The sticks are leftovers from the bunnies nibbling this winter.

I needed to replant my parsley as it didn't manage to over-winter this year.

Last year my spinach got so huge it was amazing!   The rabbits loved it in small quantities so they kept me busy mixing spinach in with their other greens.   I often needed to chop the spinach into smaller bits for them as the big leaves they just wouldn't finish.   But it grew well and lasted almost all summer for me.  I was delighted with it's longevity.
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I am very hopeful that the garden will be as productive for me this year as it was last.  It keeps us all happy (animal and people) quite happy.
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One of the greatest things about having the rabbits is they will eat 99% of all the weeds that come up.  Different times of the year they prefer different things, but they'll  eat it up regardless.   Mind... if you don't know you weeds, either have a tester rabbit OR research it to learn what it is.    If it is toxic to rabbits then don't feed it.  I have one weed here that is not good for horses... if it's not good for horses it generally isn't good for rabbits either.

So what's growing in YOUR garden?  :)
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    I have been breeding rabbits for a quite a few years.  I thoroughly enjoy them as animals and think they make great pets.  I also like to take some of them to rabbit shows to see how they measure up to the standards.

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    You can find me on Facebook and instagram. 
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    For the BEST rabbit forum I've ever found.  Go to Rabbittalk.com.  Good for the pet rabbit owner as well as the breeder for meat or show. 
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